Crop Over

In late 2014, I left my heart in the Caribbean. This month, I returned back to my beloved islands.

This time, Barbados, specifically it’s Crop Over carnival was on the agenda.

Crop Over is a traditional festival which has experienced many evolutions over the years. Starting during slavery years, the festival celebrated the end of the sugar cane harvest. There was dancing and celebration culminating in a procession of a decorated cart with the final sugar cane cuttings to the mill yard to mark the end of harvest, or Crop Over.

On the plantation it might have been an afternoon of celebration. Today it’s basically one big party. Over two months.

You can see some of the traditions of Crop Over carried on into today’s festivities, such as the ceremonial delivery of the last sugar canes, along with some more modern additions. This includes plenty of soca music and masqueraders decked out in the skimpiest yet heavily feathered outfits for the climax of the festival, the Grand Kadooment.

This was my reason for being in Barbados. To play mas (masquerade). And finally after months of waiting, the day came.

Firstly, I should say to play mas you must jump with a band. This means, you sign up with a “band” who designs and makes the costumes for the day. The best costumes sell out fast and they will set you back a decent amount, so do  your research and book months in advance.

On the day, Kadooment starts early. We were up at 6.00am to begin prep, which meant putting on the many attachments of our costume, re-gluing loose jewels and caking on makeup and sunscreen before making our way to the National Stadium at 9.00am.

The procession begins at the Stadium, where one by one bands are judged before a panel across a number of categories. After this is where the real fun starts.

As you exit the stadium and hit the streets, the soca music really amps ups and the “wining” or “wukking up” begins. To wine or wukkup of course, is to dance by gyrating one’s hips, in extremely close proximity to, more often or not a complete stranger’s, either in front or behind you. Needless to say the dance is incredibly sexual, but despite this there is no seediness or sleazyness to be found. There is great respect for revelers, even though in most cases you’re half naked in a tiny costume and you’ve lost all inhibitions dancing, you won’t be hassled or feel uncomfortable.  It’s all in the name of  celebration, which is what Kadooment actually means.

And the atmosphere is electric. There’s nothing but a sea of feathers as far as the eye can see, free-flowing rum and a jovial crowd of on-lookers who you will no doubt break free from the sidelines and dance with you in the middle of the street.

Masqueraders consist of people of all ages, shapes and sizes. In fact, there is so much body confidence, it’s mind blowing. From the muscular and athletic to full-figured,curvy and rake thin, everyone is represented here, and everyone is working it. You can't but help get caught up in the atmosphere, leave your low esteem at the door and channel your inner Crop Over queen. 

The procession route is 10km, although after 7 hours worth of dancing, mainly focused on butt and quad work, it feels like it would be much more. Having said that, the day goes by in a flash. Despite the heat, a bit too much rum and a bejeweled headdress, top and bottom weighing you down, there is so much energy and excitment to keep you going. It’s contagious.

The route ends at Spring Gardens in Bridgetown, and somehow there are revellers that actually find a way to push on to other parties and events. As we near the finish, the heat, sun burn and ache in my legs sets in and it’s home time for me. It’s my first Crop Over after all and it takes a bit of conditioning to keep up with the locals and pace yourself for these events that can literally run over days.

So wuh yuh waiting for? Mek sure yuh wine, wukkup and do de dog. Fuh trut trut.

(Basically, just go to Crop Over, ok? Start learning to wine, wukkup, dance up a storm and get on top of your game. For real.)